Embroidery is the craft of decorating
fabric or other materials using a needle to apply thread or yarn.
Embroidery may also incorporate other
materials such as pearls, beads, quills, and sequins. In modern days,
embroidery is usually seen on caps, hats, coats, blankets, dress shirts, denim,
dresses, stockings, and golf shirts. Embroidery is available with a wide
variety of thread or yarn color.
Some of the basic techniques or stitches of
the earliest embroidery are chain stitch, buttonhole or blanket stitch, running
stitch, satin stitch, cross stitch. Those stitches remain the fundamental
techniques of hand embroidery today.
History
Ancient Age
There are no embroidery that can be
attributed to the Old Age with certainty, except for some Coptic fabrics from
the Roman era, but there is no doubt that there were excellent embroideries in
Asia, Egypt , Greece and Rome
The Old Testament refers to the active
trade that the Phoenician businessmen carried out with wools, silks and
oriental embroidery and repeatedly tells us about the embroideries that they
had to wear and that actually they wore the curtains of the Tabernacle and the
veils of the temple. Even the tissues and embroidery in gold that undoubtedly
existed in the days of David and Solomon (seven or eight centuries before they
could be invented by King Attalus of Pergamum
Middle Ages
The Byzantine civilization occupies the
first place in the history of embroidery during the Middle Ages and the
Crusades were the main vehicle of this art for the whole West. Here he barely
exercised in the High Middle Ages outside perhaps the monasteries among which
the one of Saint Gall in Switzerland
The reasons given in the embroidery in the
Middle Ages are usually the same as the stews, originally taken from the
Persians. Later they mix with other Christians and they immediately triumph
since the 12th century. In the thirteenth century, as a result of the chivalric
current produced by the Crusades, embroideries and other cavalry motifs began
to be embroidered on the luxurious pieces and the composition became more
ornate, complicated and better colored, increasing the variety of colors in the
14th century. the silks. Embroidery of different kinds of points is used
throughout the Middle Ages: the past, the cross and the chain. But the latter
is disappearing towards the end of the fourteenth century when the flat point
prevails. Gold or silver embroiderythat with wool were the most common until
the thirteenth century follow the technique of the genre called plano Spain
The embroidery to enhancement begins in the
thirteenth century and becomes very common in the second half of the fifteenth,
which takes the character of high relief. The real needlework with completely
embroidered figures and with shadows and degradation of inks, imitating the
painted canvases, does not begin until the fifteenth century, from whose half
the process of nuanced gold was tried in Italy ,
which soon became common in Flanders and generalized in Spain
Among the works that stand out for their
perfection and historical celebrity are:
Byzantine art, the dalmática call of
Charlemagne or of Leo III (twelfth century and according to others, the XIV)
filled with representative figures of Jesus Christ and the glory that is kept
in St. Peter's Basilica and embroidery of Halberstadt Cathedral (Westphalia)
from the looting of Constantinople in 1204
Western art and Romanesque style, the
famous embroidered tapestries of Bayeux and the
Tapestry of the Creation of Gerona and a rich planet that belonged to the king
San Esteban (11th century) which has served as a cloak for the coronation of
the kings of Hungary and is
preserved in Budapest
Arab or Mudejar art, the cap of the Infante
Don Felipe (13th century) embroidered with eagles, castles and lacerías that is
kept by the National Archaeological Museum of Spain
French Gothic art, a frontal with twelve
paintings of the Life of Jesus Christ, in Toulouse
and a triptych in the cathedral of Chartres
English embroidery (opus anglicanum), a
layer that is in the Spanish National Museum, another one in the Kensington
Museum in London and another incomplete in the Vic Museum, from the 14th
century
German Gothic art, the front of Salzburg
Flamenco art, the cape and the suit of the
Order of the Golden Fleece that is kept in the Court Museum in Vienna and has
beautiful figures of paint on the needle (XV century) as well as two frontals
in the Cathedral of Valencia
of Florentine art, the rich front of the
main church of Manresa
Modern Age
The embroidery of the Modern Age is
distinguished by following in its figures the style of the Renaissance in the
same way as other sumptuary arts and also because it is used again with
profusion the golden thread (or canutillo) which was applied with parsimony in
recent years from middle Ages. In the sacred ornaments disappears the imagery
that in the mentioned centuries used to be applied in the central and vertical
part of the chasublesand in the shield of the back and front bands of the
layers and only by exception will be found in pieces of the seventeenth and
eighteenth centuries. On the other hand, the whole piece is very frequently covered
with purely ornamental embroidery in the case of sacred vestments, something
rare in the centuries before the sixteenth century. And in such a way the
ornaments that some become really unbearable are recharged from metals and
baroque reliefs. A chasuble with its accessory pieces guards the cathedral of Cologne
Among the embroidery for civilian garments
are those that adorn the casacones and silk vests that were very much in vogue
according to French fashion during the 18th century for gentlemen of social
standing. The cuffs and other edges of the garments looked like ornaments
embroidered with fine branches and delicate florets made with silks of various
colors. The embroidery declined notably at the end of the 18th century. It is
replaced by the machine-made one that entered the 19th century. However,
something emerges in the middle of the century.
Islamic Embroidery
Embroidery was an important art in the
Medieval Islamic world. The 17th-century Turkish traveler Evliya Çelebi called
it the "craft of the two hands". Because embroidery was a sign of
high social status in Muslim societies, it became widely popular. In cities
such as Damascus , Cairo
and Istanbul
In the 16th century, in the reign of the
Mughal Emperor Akbar, his chronicler Abu al-Fazl ibn Mubarak wrote in the
famous Ain-i-Akbari: "His majesty (Akbar) pays much attention to various
stuffs; hence Irani, Ottoman, and Mongolian articles of wear are in much
abundance especially textiles embroidered in the patterns of Nakshi, Saadi,
Chikhan, Ari, Zardozi, Wastli, Gota and Kohra. The imperial workshops in the
towns of Lahore , Agra
Automation
The development of machine embroidery and
its mass production came about in stages in the Industrial Revolution. The
first embroidery machine was the Hand-Embroidery Machine, invented in France Switzerland
Classification
Embroidery can be classified according to
what degree the design takes into account the nature of the base material and
by the relationship of stitch placement to the fabric. The main categories are
free or surface embroidery, counted embroidery, and needlepoint or canvas work.
In free or surface embroidery, designs are
applied without regard to the weave of the underlying fabric. Examples include
crewel and traditional Chinese and Japanese embroidery.
Counted-thread embroidery patterns are
created by making stitches over a predetermined number of threads in the
foundation fabric. Counted-thread embroidery is more easily worked on an
even-weave foundation fabric such as embroidery canvas, aida cloth, or
specially woven cotton and linen fabrics. Examples include cross-stitch and some
forms of blackwork embroidery.
While similar to counted thread in regards
to technique, in canvas work or needlepoint, threads are stitched through a
fabric mesh to create a dense pattern that completely covers the foundation
fabric. Examples of canvas work include bargello and Berlin wool work.
Embroidery can also be classified by the
similarity of appearance. In drawn thread work and cutwork, the foundation
fabric is deformed or cut away to create holes that are then embellished with
embroidery, often with thread in the same color as the foundation fabric. When
created with white thread on white linen or cotton, this work is collectively
referred to as whitework. However, whitework can either be counted or free.
Hardanger embroidery is a counted embroidery and the designs are often
geometric. Conversely, styles such as Broderie anglaise are similar to free
embroidery, with floral or abstract designs that are not dependent on the weave
of the fabric.
By the relief
There are three classes:
smooth, that barely protrude from the
piece.
of enhancement, which offer a lot of relief
due to a filling of cardboard or raw cotton (or of tow with wax, in the Middle
Ages) that gets in the way.
of application or superimposed, which is
embroidered outside the piece and subsequently stitched on it. Some embroidery
stitches are used almost exclusively to apply lace or fancy fabrics on a base
fabric. The most used are the Paris
By the material
For the matter of which they are made,
besides the common ones of gold, silk, they are distinguished especially:
the white embroidery, which is made with
white thread in pieces of table linen.
the embroidery to comb, which is achieved
by applying the gold or silver thread not of the common form of yarn to weave
or sew but curled or in helix, forming a flexible tube, through whose axis the
silk thread is passed with they hold the parts of it to the fabric.
the embroidery of pearls, sequins, beads,
etc. that results from applying small strings of these objects with silk thread
or one by one to the piece that is embroidered.
the flat embroidery that is executed
applying the threads or metallic strips on the fabric without entering or
leaving it as a sewing but holding them with silk stitches (point couché for
the French) conveniently given.
This is how the embroidery of cord (silk or
gold in the form of a cord) is applied, and what is called a thread laying, in
which the thread or the cord goes around the fabric without any interruption
and every turn it is held as it has been said.
The gold embroidery uses gold strands (or
to a lesser extent, silver). Gold embroidery is usually done on cloth, velvet
or silk.
The embroidery of nuanced gold, is a
variant of the flat embroidery that has for object to cover to sections with
silks of colors the thread or golden cord (subject by its ends to the fabric)
to give it more showiness and variety. For having adopted this procedure in the
work of El Escorial during the time of Felipe II is called El Escorial point.
By the shape
By the shape of the embroidered work, the following
classes are known:
The contour embroidery, when only the
contours and main internal lines of the figure are marked.
The embroidery isolated when to the above
is added the seeding of stitches and embroidered streaks the field of the
fabric where the figures are.
The embroidery is full when the whole
drawing of the figures is completely embroidered.
By the point
Depending on the sewing point that is used
in embroidery, the types that exist are almost infinite. Therefore, only the
most famous and curious are cited below:
Vainica or Vanilla, important technique of
thetraditional trimmings for which threads are extracted and then finished to
form precious drafts. This is the embroidery on unraveled, the base is the
simple point of hemming, which groups a certain number of threads called column
or beam, on which different points are made. The fabric has to be prepared with
a suitable unraveling, first extracting the lateral threads and then the
central threads; the sides of the unraveling are subsequently finished with a
cord.
Yugoslav embroidery, well known for its
ease and for its good presence.
Cross stitch, which consists of forming
crosses through the counted threads of a fabric. It has variants. It is perhaps
one of the most popular spots and, in addition to being very easy to work with,
it allows you to achieve results of great beauty. It can be done horizontally, vertically
and diagonally. To obtain a uniform effect it is important that the oblique
points always follow the same direction. Complete the work the linear point,
which outlines the embroidery. Cross-stitch embroidery is done on canvas
whenever you want to embroider fabrics that do not allow to count the threads,
such as velvet, feltor the point. It is a special fabric with the weft and warp
visible, which is woven on the fabric that is thought to embroider. Then the
motif is made cross stitch. Once the embroidery is finished, the vertical and
horizontal threads that form the canvas are removed underneath it, so that the
embroidery is on the fabric.
The double-sided cross stitch is a special
type that presents the right as the reverse. It is suitable for embroidering
garments in which the reverse of the work is also visible: the most classic
example are the curtains, in which the embroidery must be able to see both
behind and in front.
Point of Palestrina, a variant of the point
of knot: simple, fast and impeccable.
Chain stitch, another simple but more
discreet point, which resembles the crochet chain, since its operation is
almost identical. This point, like the hem stitch and the stitch point, is used
to outline the motifs to be embroidered, to fill in spaces or to create
borders. It is one of the oldest points and is found in traditional oriental
embroideries. The national costumes of Russian and Romanian women are often
decorated with a chain stitch.
Embroidery of Parma
Embroidery of Lagartera, the correct way to
name it is in the plural "Bordados de Lagartera" originating in the
town of Lagartera (Toledo )
Spain
Hardanger, Norwegian embroidery extremely
difficult but exquisite. It is based on the unraveling of the fabric by drafts.
All the points are made on a regular basis, counting the threads, creating
small and large motifs that arranged in symmetry or repeated orderly, can adopt
infinite shapes. The combination of different points allows to create
particular contrasts between full and empty areas that can be accentuated with
the choice of different colors or several shades of the same color.
Enhancement, embroidery to frame with which
the fabric is filled with floral motifs or even with showy initials.
Embroidered on tulle, we work from a tulle
that is decorated with small decorative elements.
Gather (Smock), characteristic in
children's clothing, forming honeycomb.
Mallorcan embroidery, native to the
Mediterranean archipelago, encompasses many points, such as chain and
enhancement.
Segovian embroidery and Embroidery of
Assisi, almost disappearing.
By the reasons
They may be:
Ornamental, the usual.
Embroidery of imagery those that form
portraits or images although sometimes, they take these the color of the naked
part done by brush and not embroidered.
Materials
The fabrics and yarns used in traditional
embroidery vary from place to place. Wool, linen, and silk have been in use for
thousands of years for both fabric and yarn. Today, embroidery thread is
manufactured in cotton, rayon, and novelty yarns as well as in traditional
wool, linen, and silk. Ribbon embroidery uses narrow ribbon in silk or
silk/organza blend ribbon, most commonly to create floral motifs.
Surface embroidery techniques such as chain
stitch and couching or laid-work are the most economical of expensive yarns;
couching is generally used for goldwork. Canvas work techniques, in which large
amounts of yarn are buried on the back of the work, use more materials but
provide a sturdier and more substantial finished textile.
In both canvas work and surface embroidery
an embroidery hoop or frame can be used to stretch the material and ensure even
stitching tension that prevents pattern distortion. Modern canvas work tends to
follow symmetrical counted stitching patterns with designs emerging from the
repetition of one or just a few similar stitches in a variety of hues. In
contrast, many forms of surface embroidery make use of a wide range of
stitching patterns in a single piece of work.
Techniques
The point counted and cross stitch
The counted point refers to any form of
embroidery where the pattern is formed by counting a specific amount of dots on
a regular weft, as opposed to free embroidery. Perhaps the best known form of
counted point is called cross stitch. Very widespread, and for a long time in
the whole world, this point of embroidery in the form of "x" is
realized according to a model called diagram, sometimes on a canvas pre-printed
for the apprenticeship; one of the most common types of books is the alphabet.
In this case, the drawing of a grid is
reproduced by counting the points on a canvas with regular weft (stamen of
linen, cotton, canvas or canvas Aida).
To make the cross stitches, there are two
methods:
the traditional, where each cross is formed
one after the other: xxx xx xxxx for example.
Danish, where the first embroider half
points below in the round and half points above the return to form cross: ///
//// // then go to \ \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
In both cases, it is important that all
points are in the same direction. In the same book, the two techniques can be
mixed: the Danish way for online point series, the traditional way for isolated
points.
The choice of fabric to embroider is based
on the desired end result and the dexterity of the embroiderer. Beginners
generally prefer a canvas Aida to begin with, because it offers a very regular
frame and a large mesh. Aïda canvases are available in several colors, the most
common being white and ecru. The linen meanwhile is reserved for experienced
embroiderers, as it offers the least regular pattern. The embroidery is then
counting the son of the canvas, usually two weft son and two son string. For a
finer rendering, the dots can be done on a single thread. Linen is most often
undyed, brownish in color.
Cross stitch can also be made on a standard
fabric, to adorn a garment most often. We then use a canvas
"pull-son", which reproduces a light frame. This fabric is fixed on
the fabric of the garment by a few points of frame or by glue bomb tissue. Once
the embroidery is complete, pull the vertical and horizontal son of the canvas
"pull-son" to extract them. The embroidery is then regular regardless
of the fabric of the garment on which it is made.
For large works, the canvas is stretched on
an embroidery loom (or an embroidery drum), which keeps a constant quality and
tension.
The thread used most often is milled cotton,
presented in bobbins called "skeins". They are usually composed of
six wires of eight meters in length. More than 500 colors are available and
some special effects exist, such as the "light effect" (shiny yarn)
and the "variation effect" (variation of hue along the gradient yarn
or in harmony).
Several leading brands offer yarns,
canvases and embroidery kits, including DMC and Anchor. Many books and
magazines offer diagrams to reproduce.
Corinne Chambras-Gangloff, embroiderer and
collector of alphabets in particular, writer (she prefers to say
"writer") in her spare time, proposed in 1991 to call
"crucifilist" the embroiderer or cross stitch.
Cross-stitch works can also incorporate other
types of counted stitches to complete the pattern, such as the backstitch,
frequently used to form thin lines to circumscribe pattern shapes or add
delicate shapes such as small letters, motion effects, a cat's whiskers, etc.
The point Catherine de Medicis
Developed by Catherine de Medici, it
spreads in France Italy
The small point
A large mesh painted canvas is filled with
small dots, cross stitches or half dots to fill the painted grid and become a
painting. This is a male pastime attested in the British Navy.
Needle painting
The embroidery with the encroaching past
imitates the watercolor (China ,
Europe ).
This embroidery technique originated in the
Far East aims to reproduce subjects - mainly
botanical and animal, even mythological - with the greatest precision; to
achieve this, embroiderers and embroiderers use the technique of single thread.
The use of a single strand, very often silk, implies a significantly higher
workload. Variations of techniques are numerous, but one of the most
spectacular is probably the "double-sided" embroidery still performed
in China
Xiang embroidery, one of the most famous
crafts of Hunan province, is one of the four
famous schools of this craft in China ,
with Su School (Suzhou , Jiangsu
Province), Yue (Guangdong Province ) and that of Shu (Sichuan Province
In the West the needle painting is
experiencing a significant revival of interest among the public 4.
Embroidery in relief
In this terminology, there are in fact many
techniques whose common point is the important relief of the finished work.
In addition to ribbon embroidery, there is
the stumpwork, a technique in which elements embroidered separately and
possibly held together by small iron wires are attached to the work, and
Brazilian embroidery, where the relief is given by the association of
particular points and a thread having, of itself, some holding.
The embroidery at the point of Beauvais
The point of Beauvais is a technique of
crochet embroidery known for centuries, it can make beautiful and solid works
quickly enough when you master the technique.
The ribbon embroidery
Also called rococo embroidery, ribbon
embroidery is a technical born in France in the xvii th century, in which we no
longer embroiders with son, but with ribbons of different widths, often in
silk.
The dots used are often those of thread
embroidery, but there are also specific points, where we exploit the large
width of the ribbon.
After being neglected for years, this
embroidery returns to fashion, especially since it has the advantage of
combining a relatively simple technique to a particularly impressive, often
Victorian style.
Days
Days that are subdivided into days with
"drawn threads" and days with "tight threads". The
techniques are numerous and particularly conserved in Central
Europe .
Another technique, Hardanger embroidery,
comes from Northern Europe .
Blackwork
In the xvi th and xvii th centuries of
white linen cloth were embroidered with silk black. Regular patterns and
reversible, these fabrics were used to make clothes.
Today most often on stamen this embroidery
is used to adorn small books or embroidery more complicated by playing on the
thickness of the son used.
Embroidery on tulle
Imitation of lace needle, patterns are
identified at the point of recovery and then embroidered at the point of drone
or festoon, they are interconnected by "wheels" or
"spiders", then the bottom is cut to leave appear only the figures
that can be filled beforehand.
This embroidery is executed in white thread
on cotton tulle, it still serves today to embroider the headdresses of
traditional costumes, especially in Brittany
Renaissance or Richelieu embroidery
On linen or cotton cloth, figures with
scalloped edges are connected to each other by flanges, then the fabric is cut.
In Renaissance embroidery the bridles are
simple, in Richelieu embroidery, they are
adorned with pins.
Indian embroidery Aari
The Aari technique is used by Western
designers for their accessories and clothing designs.
Aari embroidery is practiced with a wooden
frame, which can adapt to any length of fabric. This concept of embroidery has
evolved from the Khatia Indian bed, still used in rural areas.
The patterns are drawn directly on the
fabric. They organize themselves around a large central figurative motif Nadir
Shahi Booti.
Embroidery chikan-kari
Booming xix th century in the then Bengal
cities of Dhaka Bangladesh ,
Kolkata (Bengal) or Lucknow
Japanese embroidery sashiko
This technique appeared during the Edo era, and serves to strengthen and mend work clothes
of the Japanese working population. Since the end of the xx th century, it is
used for decorative purposes, as independent embroidery or complement the
patchwork.
It is characterized by its regular and
geometric patterns, and by its contrasting colors between the embroidery thread
and the background fabric, traditionally white or ecru and indigo.
Contemporary embroidery
Nowadays, with more and more modern
techniques, some companies can embroider on all media logos, images, more and
more complex in large quantities and with great speed. The works of the famous
embroiderers and creators François Lesage, René Bégué, dit Rébé, Miguel
Cisterna 6, 7are exhibited at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris
Pascal Jaouen revived the Breton embroidery
by creating in 1995 an embroidery school in Quimper
The embroidery with gold thread
Gold thread embroidery is a particular
technique that uses gold or silver threads and has been widely used for
military, liturgical, royal, official, etc. clothing. The threads used have
specific names such as: quill, jaseron, or yarn. Each of these threads requires
a different working technique. Today this technique is particularly used in
haute couture or decoration and is still worn by some military and religious.
Qualities
Embroidery can be used to learn symmetries,
scales in elementary mathematics.
Embroidery is also an object of study for
folklorists and art historians, who see a key identity factors of the old
provinces since the xix th century. It is also a collector's item, much sought
since the beginning of the xx th century.
Today, industrial embroidery is spreading
around the world and even in Africa . For
example, in Central Africa and more particularly in Cameroon
Historical applications and techniques
Depending on time, location and materials
available, embroidery could be the domain of a few experts or a widespread,
popular technique. This flexibility led to a variety of works, from the royal
to the mundane.
Elaborately embroidered clothing, religious
objects, and household items often were seen as a mark of wealth and status, as
in the case of Opus Anglicanum, a technique used by professional workshops and
guilds in medieval England
Conversely, embroidery is also a folk art, using
materials that were accessible to nonprofessionals. Examples include Hardanger
from Norway , Merezhka from Ukraine , Mountmellick embroidery from Ireland , Nakshi kantha from Bangladesh and West Bengal ,
and Brazilian embroidery. Many techniques had a practical use such as Sashiko
from Japan
Tools
Yarn
For embroidery you use special yarns. The
most commonly used today are Sticktwist and Perlgarn. Sticktwist is 6-ply and
can be divided into thinner strands for fine embroidery. Pearl yarn is
indivisible, but it is shiny and has a smoother surface. But other materials
can be embroidered and were also used in past centuries, for example, silk
filament, twisted silk yarn, narrow silk ribbon, wool yarn, cotton (stitch)
yarn or fancy yarns such as chenille.
Embroidery Needles
Needles are the most important and
elementary working tool for sewing and embroidering. A sewing or embroidery
needle is generally a specially shaped metal pin with an eye or an incorporated
hook, can be pierced with the fabric. The needles are provided with one or two
tips. Through the eye of the sewing or embroidery thread, also referred to as
needle thread, pulled / threaded. Through the hook of the hook needle (needle
for crank and chain stitching machines), a thread loop can be detected after
piercing the material to be sewn or the embroidery bottom, so that stitching
takes place.
There are five basic types of needles:
Single-pointed sewing or embroidery needles
for needlework with the eye in the shaft of the needle,
double-pointed needles for hand embroidery
machines with the eye in the middle of the needle,
pointed needles for sewing and embroidery
machines,
Hook needles for chainstitch or crank
stitch machines,
Needles for special embroidery machines,
for example, for oriental embroidery machines, tufting machine, etc.
Hand Needle Needle
Hand sewing and embroidery needles are
elongated thin straight or curved metal pins that terminate at one of the ends
in a point and have an eye at the other end. They exist
with round tip for countable fabrics (Aida,
Stramin etc.) and
with pointed tip for finer fabrics.
There are also different sizes. The finer
the fabric, the thinner the needle used should be. The needle diameter, the
length of the needle and the eye (size and shape) are designed differently for
use as a sewing or embroidery needle and for the thread to be processed.
Embroidery needles are usually shorter and have a longer and larger eye.
The single-pointed sewing and embroidery
needle was for centuries the most important tool for sewing and embroidery.
Machine Needle
Sewing and embroidery needles are
needlelike needles, d. H. the eye is in the area of the needle tip. Since
sewing or embroidery threads on the machine needles slide through the eye at
each stitch, the ears have a special shape. They must be designed so that the
needle threads to be processed are not damaged and that yarn breaks are avoided
with a high number of stitches per unit time.
The needles for embroidery machines are now
offered in a variety of special designs in terms of shape and design of the
eye, the tip, surface, the material, etc. For the threading of the needle
thread in the eye during the running of the shuttle embroidery machine -
Gangfädeln - and even at standstill of the machine threading hook, also called
Fädelhäkchen used.
Stickgrund
Depending on the technique used, there are
various fabrics that are suitable for embroidery. For cross stitch, the fabric
should be countable, for needle painting, however, this is not necessary.
Countable fabrics include Aida fabric, canvas or linen. Stretch fabrics are not
suitable for any type of embroidery. For Petit Point embroidery is gladly
resorted to silk gauze.
Embroidery hoop
In order not to contract the fabric through
the embroidery and to avoid distortions in the pattern, stretch the fabric
tightly in an embroidery hoop. This is usually round and consists of an inner
and an outer ring, between which the fabric is placed.
Heavy substances or substances that z. B.
get a gold embroidery need a square frame, which consists of a spar and two
perforated slats. The fabric must be sewn as a rectangle to the spars, possibly
rolled up on the spars and then stretched with the perforated battens, which
are guided by the spars. This way even large-sized embroideries can be realized
very well without distortion.
Visual aids
Especially for fine embroidery, it is
helpful to use a magnifying glass attached to a swiveling arm. Such loupes are
also available with integrated lamp. Loupes should be sufficiently large and
close to the point of embroidery to allow two-eyed vision through the
magnifying glass.
Even a pair of reading glasses offers the
advantage of a closer range of sharpness of the eye.
Particularly bright, non-dazzling lighting
can be produced by a lamp with a small screen, which is brought close to the
embroidery up to 10 or 20 centimeters.
Bright light allows the eye to sharply dim
the pupil, producing high depth of field and eliminating edge aberrations of
the lens.
Embroidery Patterns
Embroidery designs are usually printed on
paper or fabric. Paper templates are available as color templates or symbol
templates. Partially embroidered templates for embroidery, such as. B. used in
samplers.
Machine stitching
Contemporary embroidery is stitched with a
computerized embroidery machine using patterns digitized with embroidery
software. In machine embroidery, different types of "fills" add
texture and design to the finished work. Machine embroidery is used to add
logos and monograms to business shirts or jackets, gifts, and team apparel as
well as to decorate household linens, draperies, and decorator fabrics that
mimic the elaborate hand embroidery of the past.
Machine embroidery is most typically done
with rayon thread, although polyester thread can also be used. Cotton thread,
on the other hand, is prone to breaking and should be avoided if under 30 wt.
There has also been a development in free
hand machine embroidery, new machines have been designed that allow for the
user to create free-motion embroidery which has its place in textile arts,
quilting, dressmaking, home furnishings and more. Users can use the embroidery
software to digitize the digital embroidery designs. These digitized design are
then transferred to the embroidery machine with the help of a flash drive and
then the embroidery machine embroiders the selected design onto the fabric.
Geographic and technical development
Swiss textile merchants from St. Gallen
copied hand-embroidery by Turkish women around 1751 in Lyon (F). About Sticklehrerinnen was spread in
the northeast of Switzerland 1763 in
Vorarlberg this craft.
In 1818 there were about 6,000-10,000
embroiderers in Vorarlberg with a population of around 100,000.
In 1828, Joshua Heilmann from Mulhouse (Alsace
In 1863 came the chain stitch machine.
In the Schifflistickmaschine, awarded in
1873 by Isaak Gröbli from Gossau SG at the World Fair in Vienna
Electric motor and pantograph with punch
card control led to the embroidery machine.
Today, digital control using graphics files
is the state of the art in embroidering fonts, logos or multi-color images.
Embroidered textiles
Branding of clothing for brand companies,
sports clubs, national teams is often done today by digital embroidery. In one
go, there is the possibility to personalize pieces, such as by embroidering the
name of individual athletes.
Badges for sewing on garments, mass
produced at least since 1970, ie without digital graphic design - for state
uniforms, boy scout uniform shirt, Red Cross jacket, Rennfahrerkapperl.
Labeling of branded textiles was made initially rather up or sewing or adhering
a label. Increasingly, textiles (or a cut piece prior to sewing) are
individually embroidered. It sometimes happens that rain and windproof fabrics
from / for rain jackets or gloves are damaged by embroidery, but they are taped
back tightly at the back.
Embroidered motifs on garments are
sometimes more durable against scrubbing and washing than imprints.
Qualifications
City and Guilds qualification in Embroidery
allows embroiderers to become recognized for their skill. This qualification
also gives them the credibility to teach. For example, the notable textiles
artist, Kathleen Laurel Sage, began her teaching career by getting the City and
Guilds Embroidery 1 and 2 qualifications. She has now gone on to write a book
on the subject.
Source from Wikipedia
