Cross-stitch is a form of sewing and a
popular form of counted-thread embroidery in which X-shaped stitches in a
tiled, raster-like pattern are used to form a picture. The stitcher counts the
threads on a piece of evenweave fabric (such as linen) in each direction so
that the stitches are of uniform size and appearance. This form of cross-stitch
is also called counted cross-stitch in order to distinguish it from other forms
of cross-stitch. Sometimes cross-stitch is done on designs printed on the
fabric (stamped cross-stitch); the stitcher simply stitches over the printed
pattern. Cross-stitch is also executed on easily countable fabric called aida
cloth but the threads are not actually counted.
Fabrics used in cross-stitch include linen,
aida, and mixed-content fabrics called 'evenweave' such as jobelan. All
cross-stitch fabrics are technically "evenweave" as the term refers
to the fact that the fabric is woven to make sure that there are the same
number of threads in an inch both left to right and top to bottom (vertically
and horizontally). Fabrics are categorized by threads per inch (referred to as
'count'), which can range from 11 to 40 count. Counted Cross-stitch projects
are worked from a gridded pattern and can be used on any count fabric, the
count of the fabric determines the size of the finished stitching if the
stitchers counts and stitches over 2 threads. The finished stitching size is
reduced by half if the stitcher counts and stitches on a 28 count cross stich
fabric rather than a 14 count cross stitch fabric. Stitchers can also change
the size of their piece by stitching over multiple threads. These methods are
commonly referred to as "2 over 2"—i.e. 2 embroidery threads used to
stitch over 2 fabric threads; and "1 over 1"—i.e. 1 embroidery thread
used to stitch over 1 fabric thread. There are different methods of stitching a
pattern, including the cross-country method where one colour is stitched at a
time, or the parking method where one block of fabric is stitched at a time and
the end of the thread is "parked" at the next point the same colour
occurs in the pattern.
History
Cross-stitch is the oldest form of
embroidery and can be found all over the world. Many folk museums show examples
of clothing decorated with cross-stitch, especially from continental Europe,
Asia, and Eastern and Central Europe .
The cross-stitch sampler is called that
because it was generally stitched by a young girl to learn how to stitch and to
record alphabet and other patterns to be used in her household sewing. These
samples of her stitching could be referred back to over the years. Often,
motifs and initials were stitched on household items to identify their owner,
or simply to decorate the otherwise-plain cloth. The earliest known cross
stitch sampler made in the United States
is currently housed at Pilgrim Hall in Plymouth ,
Massachusetts
Traditionally, cross-stitch was used to
embellish items like household linens, tablecloths, dishcloths, and doilies
(only a small portion of which would actually be embroidered, such as a
border). Although there are many cross-stitchers who still employ it in this
fashion, it is now increasingly popular to work the pattern on pieces of fabric
and hang them on the wall for decoration. Cross-stitch is also often used to
make greeting cards, pillowtops, or as inserts for box tops, coasters and
trivets.
Multicoloured, shaded, painting-like patterns
as we know them today are a fairly modern development, deriving from similar
shaded patterns of Berlin wool work of the mid-nineteenth century. Besides
designs created expressly for cross-stitch, there are software programs that
convert a photograph or a fine art image into a chart suitable for stitching.
One example of this is in the cross-stitched reproduction of the Sistine Chapel
charted and stitched by Joanna Lopianowski-Roberts.
There are many cross-stitching
"guilds" and groups across the United
States and Europe which
offer classes, collaborate on large projects, stitch for charity, and provide
other ways for local cross-stitchers to get to know one another. Individually
owned local needlework shops (LNS) often have stitching nights at their shops,
or host weekend stitching retreats.
Today, cotton floss is the most common
embroidery thread. It is a thread made of mercerized cotton, composed of six
strands that are only loosely twisted together and easily separable. While
there are other manufacturers, the two most-commonly used (and oldest) brands
are DMC and Anchor, both of which have been manufacturing embroidery floss
since the 1800s.
Other materials used are pearl (or perle)
cotton, Danish flower thread, silk and Rayon. Different wool threads, metallic
threads or other novelty threads are also used, sometimes for the whole work,
but often for accents and embellishments. Hand-dyed cross-stitch floss is
created just as the name implies—it is dyed by hand. Because of this, there are
variations in the amount of color throughout the thread. Some variations can be
subtle, while some can be a huge contrast. Some also have more than one color
per thread, which in the right project, creates amazing results.
Cross-stitch is widely used in traditional
Palestinian dressmaking.
Materials
Fabric: Linen, aida fabric or panama,
although thanks to the canvas (not to be confused with the one of upholstery!)
The cross stitch becomes viable on any fabric. If, for example, we want to embroider
on a canvas, we should center a piece of canvas, baste it and embroider the
cross stitch according to its pattern. Finally, the canvas is undone by pulling
with great care of its threads. Tip: in this situation should be embroidered
with a little more than the normal tension, since, otherwise, when removing the
threads, the embroidery would be airborne, being susceptible to a hook.
Threads: Preferably, mouliné, 100% cotton
and worked with two strands.
Needles: The use of a short needle is
recommended, since it allows to take advantage of the expensive thread to the
maximum. If it is embroidered on aida or panama, it will be preferred a
pointless (also called blunt point), but if you work on a more compact, dense
fabric, you should use a needle with a sharp point but not so sharp, so as not
to cause damage of serious injuries.
Frame: In England
Techniques
The counted point refers to any form of
embroidery where the pattern is formed by counting a specific amount of dots on
a regular weft, as opposed to free embroidery. Perhaps the best known form of
counted point is called cross stitch. Very widespread, and for a long time in
the whole world, this point of embroidery in the form of "x" is
realized according to a model called diagram, sometimes on a canvas pre-printed
for the apprenticeship; one of the most common types of books is the alphabet.
In this case, the drawing of a grid is
reproduced by counting the points on a canvas with regular weft (stamen of
linen, cotton, canvas or canvas Aida ).
To make the cross stitches, there are two
methods:
the traditional, where each cross is formed
one after the other: xxx xx xxxx for example.
Danish, where the first embroider half
points below in the round and half points above the return to form cross: ///
//// // then go to \ \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
In both cases, it is important that all
points are in the same direction. In the same book, the two techniques can be
mixed: the Danish way for online point series, the traditional way for isolated
points.
The choice of fabric to embroider is based
on the desired end result and the dexterity of the embroiderer. Beginners
generally prefer a canvas Aida to begin with, because it offers a very regular
frame and a large mesh. Aïda canvases are available in several colors, the most
common being white and ecru. The linen meanwhile is reserved for experienced
embroiderers, as it offers the least regular pattern. The embroidery is then
counting the son of the canvas, usually two weft son and two son string. For a
finer rendering, the dots can be done on a single thread. Linen is most often
undyed, brownish in color.
Cross stitch can also be made on a standard
fabric, to adorn a garment most often. We then use a canvas
"pull-son", which reproduces a light frame. This fabric is fixed on
the fabric of the garment by a few points of frame or by glue bomb tissue. Once
the embroidery is complete, pull the vertical and horizontal son of the canvas
"pull-son" to extract them. The embroidery is then regular regardless
of the fabric of the garment on which it is made.
For large works, the canvas is stretched on
an embroidery loom (or an embroidery drum ), which keeps a constant quality and
tension.
The thread used most often is milled cotton,
presented in bobbins called "skeins". They are usually composed of
six wires of eight meters in length. More than 500 colors are available and
some special effects exist, such as the "light effect" (shiny yarn)
and the "variation effect" (variation of hue along the gradient yarn
or in harmony).
Several leading brands offer yarns,
canvases and embroidery kits, including DMC and Anchor. Many books and
magazines offer diagrams to reproduce.
Corinne Chambras-Gangloff, embroiderer and
collector of alphabets in particular 2, writer (she prefers to say
"writer") in her spare time, proposed in 1991 to call
"crucifilist" the embroiderer or cross stitch.
Cross-stitch works can also incorporate
other types of counted stitches to complete the pattern, such as the
backstitch, frequently used to form thin lines to circumscribe pattern shapes
or add delicate shapes such as small letters, motion effects, a cat's whiskers,
etc.
Realization
There are two movements at work:
Round trip, which gives a better quality
and appearance upside down; Y
Continuous, which is especially recommended
when embroidering borders.
Even so, many cross- stitch schemes rely on
the stitching (= linear stitch), used to highlight the pattern, and, to a
lesser extent, the stitch point and the last stitch.
In addition, the reverse of embroidery is
just as important as the front. For this reason it is recommended not to start
with a new thread of thread making a knot at the end, but through the invisible
stitch method. Likewise, when finishing a new thread it is recommended to
finish without being noticed.
Variants
Possibly it is his high practice that has
made important variations from a single initial idea, by subtraction or
addition of stitches. We have to mention two other points that were born from
the famous x:
Petit-point (= half a point) Tapestries
made on wool that consist of a single diagonal stitch (which must be identical
in all the work). It works thanks to a square frame with wool on a tapestry of
upholstery that can be acquired already marked.
Point of the devil. It consists of
embroidering a cross and a cross inside the same painting. It is frequent to do
it in mouliné or in perlé on the typical paintings of Vichy
(France
Related stitches and forms of embroidery
Other stitches are also often used in
cross-stitch, among them quarter-, half-, and three-quarter-stitches and
backstitches.
Cross-stitch is often used together with
other stitches. A cross-stitch can come in a variety of prostational forms. It
is sometimes used in crewel embroidery, especially in its more modern
derivatives. It is also often used in needlepoint.
A specialized historical form of embroidery
using cross-stitch is Assisi
There are many stitches which are related
to cross-stitch and were used in similar ways in earlier times. The best known
are Italian cross-stitch, Celtic Cross Stitch, Irish Cross Stitch, long-armed
cross-stitch, Ukrainian cross-stitch and Montenegrin stitch. Italian
cross-stitch and Montenegrin stitch are reversible, meaning the work looks the
same on both sides. These styles have a slightly different look than ordinary
cross-stitch. These more difficult stitches are rarely used in mainstream
embroidery, but they are still used to recreate historical pieces of embroidery
or by the creative and adventurous stitcher.
The double cross-stitch, also known as a
Leviathan stitch or Smyrna
Berlin wool work and similar petit point
stitchery resembles the heavily shaded, opulent styles of cross-stitch, and
sometimes also used charted patterns on paper.
Cross-stitch is often combined with other
popular forms of embroidery, such as Hardanger embroidery or blackwork
embroidery. Cross-stitch may also be combined with other work, such as
canvaswork or drawn thread work. Beadwork and other embellishments such as
paillettes, charms, small buttons and specialty threads of various kinds may
also be used.
Recent trends for cross stitch
Cross-stitch has become increasingly
popular with the younger generation of Europe
in recent years. Retailers such as John Lewis experienced a 17% rise in sales
of haberdashery products between 2009 and 2010. Hobbycraft, a chain of stores
selling craft supplies, also enjoyed an 11% increase in sales over the year to
February 22, 2009.
Knitting and cross-stitching have become
more popular hobbies for a younger market, in contrast to its traditional
reputation as a hobby for retirees. Sewing and craft groups such as Stitch and
Bitch London have resurrected the idea of the traditional craft club. At
Clothes Show Live 2010 there was a new area called "Sknitch"
promoting modern sewing, knitting and embroidery.
In a departure from the traditional designs
associated with cross-stitch, there is a current trend for more postmodern or
tongue-in-cheek designs featuring retro images or contemporary sayings. It is
linked to a concept known as 'subversive cross-stitch', which involves more
risque designs, often fusing the traditional sampler style with sayings
designed to shock or be incongruous with the old-fashioned image of
cross-stitch.
Stitching designs on other materials can be
accomplished by using waste canvas. This is a temporary gridded canvas similar
to regular canvas used for embroidery that is held together by a water-soluble
glue, which is removed after completion of stitch design. Other crafters have
taken to cross-stitching on all manner of gridded objects as well including old
kitchen strainers or chain-link fences.
Flosstube
An increasingly popular activity for
cross-stitchers is to watch and make YouTube videos detailing their hobby.
Flosstubers, as they are known, typically cover WIPs (Works in Progress), FOs
(Finished Objects), and Haul (new patterns, thread, and fabric, as well as
cross-stitching accessories, such as needleminders).
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