Costume jewelry

Costume or fashion jewelry includes a range of decorative items worn for personal adornment that are manufactured as less expensive ornamentation to complement a particular fashionable outfit or garment as opposed to "real" (fine) jewelry, which is more costly and which may be regarded primarily as collectibles, keepsakes, or investments. From the outset, costume jewelry — also known as fashion jewelry — paralleled the styles of its more precious fine counterparts.

Costume jewelry,  is generally a unique or limited-edition handcrafted object, and made mainly by hand, by a creative person (jeweler). Creative because this person uses his or her imagination (fantasy) for the design of the jewelry but also for the technicality used during manufacturing, which involves rigorous but also creative, even intuitive and even experimental methods, depending on the desired result.

The exploration of new materials by artists, jewelers, and even designers will lead, following in-depth research, to new implementation techniques. The work of shapes, combinations of materials, colors, and textures brings a new dimension to jewelry. The latter can become a work of art in its own right.

For small craft or even artistic businesses, the manufacture of costume jewelry must be carried out mainly by hand,  hence the expression so often encountered "Handmade" or even "Made with love" to highlight the meticulous, technical manufacturing work...

Mass-produced jewelry - precious, semi-precious or non-precious - is not a separate field but a manufacturing method. It is manufactured industrially and on a large scale. It is a piece of jewelry produced in mass quantities aiming for maximum profitability: low material costs, very short manufacturing time and very often cheap labor. Industrialization will therefore allow the intensive production of cheap jewelry, sold in many jewelry stores. These regularly attract the interest of fraudsters who take advantage of events and festivities on exhibition stands and market stalls in particular, to deceive the consumer who may find themselves confronted with counterfeit jewelry, , , .

In the past, it was common to hear that costume jewelry was trinkets or even frivolities: "Everything that is not precious is costume jewelry" without value if not precious or semi-precious. The expression is now outdated, and tends to go out of fashion because all creation comes from the imagination of the creator.

Moreover, what is fantasy can be valuable in the literal sense and/or valuable in the socio-affective sense.

Costume jewelry is a fashion accessory of various styles. It is attached to the body, to the outfit, to the garment, in order to highlight certain features or to modify it. Like clothing,  fashion accessories have, simultaneously, a utilitarian function and a social function. They allow one to recognize oneself within a group, to show one's originality (to stand out) or to take into account a particular context: festival, evening, family reunion, office work, work in an industrial environment, school, exam/competition, use of motorized vehicle, to name just a few examples.

Terminology

It is also known as artificial jewellery, imitation jewellery, imitated jewelry, trinkets, fashion jewelry, junk jewelry, fake jewelry, or fallalery.

Etymology

The term costume jewelry dates back to the early 20th century. It reflects the use of the word "costume" to refer to what is now called an "outfit".

General history

Costume jewelry has been part of the culture for almost 300 years. During the 18th century, jewelers began making pieces with inexpensive glass. In the 19th century, costume jewelry made of semi-precious material came into the market. Jewels made of semi-precious material were more affordable, allowing common people to own costume jewelry.

However, the real golden era for costume jewelry began in the middle of the 20th century. The new middle class wanted beautiful, but affordable jewelry. The demand for jewelry of this type coincided with the machine age and the Industrial Revolution. The revolution made the production of carefully executed replicas of admired heirloom pieces possible.

As the class structure in America changed, so did measures of real wealth. Women in all social stations, even working-class women, could own a small piece of costume jewelry. The average town and countrywoman could acquire and wear a considerable amount of this mass-produced jewelry that was both affordable and stylish.

Costume jewelry was also made popular by various designers in the mid-20th century. Some of the most remembered names in costume jewelry include both the high and low priced brands: Crown Trifari, Dior, Chanel, Miriam Haskell, Sherman, Monet, Napier, Corocraft, Coventry, and Kim Craftsmen.

A significant factor in the popularization of costume jewelry was Hollywood movies. The leading female stars of the 1940s and 1950s often wore and endorsed the pieces produced by various designers. If you admired a necklace worn by Bette Davis in The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex, you could buy a copy from Joseff of Hollywood, who made the original. Stars such as Vivien Leigh, Elizabeth Taylor, and Jane Russell appeared in adverts for the pieces and the availability of the collections in shops such as Woolworth made it possible for ordinary women to own and wear such jewelry.

Coco Chanel greatly popularized the use of faux jewelry in her years as a fashion designer, bringing costume jewelry to life with gold and faux pearls. Chanel's designs drew from various historical styles, including Byzantine and Renaissance influences, often featuring crosses and intricate metalwork. Her collaboration with glassmakers, such as the Gripoix family, introduced richly colored glass beads and simulated gemstones, which added depth to her creations without the high cost of traditional precious stones. Kenneth Jay Lane has since the 1960s been known for creating unique pieces for Jackie Onassis, Elizabeth Taylor, Diana Vreeland, and Audrey Hepburn. He is probably best known for his three-strand faux pearl necklace worn by Barbara Bush to her husband's inaugural ball. Celebrated names who wore Lane's creations include Jackie Kennedy, Babe Paley, the Duchess of Windsor, and Nancy Reagan.

Elsa Schiaparelli brought surrealist influences into costume jewelry design, collaborating with artists such as Salvador Dalí.

In many instances, high-end fashion jewelry has achieved a "collectible" status and increased value over time. Today, there is a substantial secondary market for vintage fashion jewelry. The main collecting market is for 'signed pieces', which have the maker's mark, usually stamped on the reverse. Amongst the most sought after are Miriam Haskell, Sherman, Coro, Butler and Wilson, Crown Trifari, and Sphinx. However, there is also demand for good quality 'unsigned' pieces, especially if they are of an unusual design.

Before the beginning of the 20th century

Jewelry has existed for almost as long as clothing. Initially, it was used as an ornament to enhance an outfit. Whether religious or aesthetic in nature, these objects became more sophisticated with successive attachment techniques, ultimately sanctifying the word "jewelry."

Pierced shells found in Israel,  Morocco and South Africa show that the jewelry dates back more than 100,000 years. Initially rustic, the jewelry was made of bone or animal teeth, then stone and amber.

The Celts were the first people to be renowned for the quality of their finery and jewelry.

After the First World War

It was only after the First World War,  with the era of oil, Fordism and the advent of mass production,  that jewelry and adornments became less " symbolic " and their use less " codified ". Indeed, now accessible to all, jewelry was at the time a way of distinguishing social class ranks. Thus, one could recognize which class a person came from and the ornament was considered luxurious.

Furthermore, the First World War was a turning point in the history of jewelry because gold was recovered by governments to participate in the war effort. Craftsmen were mobilized or retrained in the arms industry. Jewelry suffered the same fate and was made with simple metals (iron,  copper,  aluminum,  etc.). Jewelry of yesteryear, created from precious metals, took on an even greater significance due to the separations, whether definitive or not, due to the period.

Favorable context, result of the shock of the two wars

The Second World War once again paralyzed the jewelry industry. Simple jewelry reappeared; patriotic jewelry, with the emblems of soldiers' regiments or units, was even produced. Morals changed with the violence of war, and the social role of women took on a decisive role (they were in factories and men in war). New materials appeared and old ones were reused.

The shock of this war and the new social role of women in this context influenced fashion in general, the design and manufacture of jewelry, which became more stylized under the impetus of Art Deco fashion in particular. The rise of new materials (bakelite,  nickel silver) and the return of older ones (marcasite, pewter) gave a new impetus where "fake jewelry" (because they did not use precious materials, but resembled luxury jewelry) were no longer attempts at imitation but rather jewelry in their own right: they gradually acquired their own identity and became part of a new, particular fashion (example: Art fashion), with their own colors and shapes. The introduction of the term "costume jewelry" finally appeared.

The Thirty Glorious Years

After the war, the standard of living slowly improved with full employment and rising wages, and jewelry regained its place in daily life.

From the 1950s onwards,  three major sectors can be clearly distinguished:

jewelry,  which produces unique or limited series pieces in prestigious materials;

costume jewelry,  which produces pieces in series, taking advantage of new materials such as plastic, polyester, synthetic resins;

artisanal jewelry, sometimes called ceremonial jewelry,  which produces unique or limited series pieces.

Nowadays

It is clear that in common usage, the term costume jewelry no longer refers to a sectored piece of jewelry but simply to a piece of jewelry resulting from the imagination of the creator, regardless of the materials used in its manufacture. Its value can be estimated according to people, cultures, and context, for example, depending on the materials, the work carried out, the different techniques used, the intentions and the attention to detail used in particular. The estimation of a piece of jewelry is entirely relative to each person, according to the specific values of the person or group of people.

Historical expression

Costume jewelry can be characterized by the period in history in which it was made.

Art Deco period (1920–1930s)

The Art Deco movement attempted to combine the harshness of mass production with the sensitivity of art and design. The movement died with the onset of the Great Depression and the outbreak of World War II.

According to Schiffer, some of the characteristics of the costume jewelry in the Art Deco period were:

Free-flowing curves were replaced with a harshly geometric and symmetrical theme

Long pendants, bangle bracelets, cocktail rings, and elaborate accessory items such as cigarette cases and holders

Retro period (1935 to 1950)

In the Retro period, designers struggled with the art versus mass production dilemma. Natural materials merged with plastics. The retro period primarily included American-made jewelry with a distinctly American look. With the war in Europe, many European jewelry firms were forced to shut down. Many European designers emigrated to the U.S. since the economy was recovering.

According to Schiffer, some of the characteristics of costume jewelry in the Retro period were:

Glamour, elegance, and sophistication

Flowers, bows, and sunburst designs with a Hollywood flair

Moonstones, horse motifs, military influence, and ballerinas

Bakelite and other plastic jewelry

Art Modern period (1945 to 1960)

In the Art Modern period following World War II, jewelry designs became more traditional and understated. The big, bold styles of the Retro period went out of style and were replaced by the more tailored styles of the 1950s and 1960s.

According to Schiffer, some of the characteristics of costume jewelry in the Art Modern period were:

Bold, lavish jewelry

Large, chunky bracelets, charm bracelets, Jade/opal, citrine and topaz

Poodle pins, Christmas tree pins, and other Christmas jewelry

Rhinestones

With the advent of the Mod period came "Body Jewelry". Carl Schimel of Kim Craftsmen Jewelry was at the forefront of this style. While Kim Craftsmen closed in the early 1990s, many collectors still forage for their items at antique shows and flea markets.

Components

Originally, costume or fashion jewelry was made of inexpensive simulated gemstones, such as rhinestones or lucite, set in pewter, silver, nickel, or brass. During the depression years, some manufacturers even downgraded rhinestones to meet the cost of production.

During the World War II era, sterling silver was often incorporated into costume jewelry designs primarily because:

The components used for base metal were needed for wartime production (i.e., military applications), and a ban was placed on their use in the private sector.

Base metal was originally popular because it could approximate platinum's color, sterling silver fulfilled the same function.

This resulted in some years during which sterling silver costume jewelry was produced and some can still be found in today's vintage jewelry marketplace.

Modern costume jewelry incorporates a wide range of materials. High-end crystals, cubic zirconia simulated diamonds, and some semi-precious stones are used in place of precious stones. Metals include gold- or silver-plated brass, and sometimes vermeil or sterling silver. Lower-priced jewelry may still use gold plating over pewter, nickel, or other metals; items made in countries outside the United States[dubious – discuss] may contain lead. Some pieces incorporate plastic, acrylic, leather, or wood.

Materials used in costume jewelry

Different types of materials allow the manufacture of costume jewelry:

Metals: gold,  silver,  copper,  stainless steel,  aluminum,  brass, 

Gemstones: diamond

Synthetic stones

Resins: epoxy resin,  UV resin

Polymer clay: Fimo paste

Fibers: cotton,  wool,  polyester

Other materials: glass,  mother-of-pearl,  shell,  horn,  earth,  leather, 

Since the decree ofFebruary 2002, the terms "precious stone", "fine stone" and “ornamental stone” are prohibited in France. These three former categories are grouped under the single term “gems”.

Some examples of gemstones

Diamond,  transparent (pale blue, very transparent and shiny white…)

Emerald,  transparent (dark green)

Ruby,  transparent (red to scarlet)

Sapphire,  transparent (light to medium blue)

Garnet,  translucent (red, brown, green or purple)

Topaz,  transparent (light to dark blue)

Agate,  translucent (striped brown, blue, white, red)

Amber,  transparent (various shades of yellow or gold)

Red coral,  opaque (scarlet red)

Jade,  translucent (pale green, dark green,  green and white)

Jet,  opaque (black)

Jasper,  opaque (blue, with black to brown reflection)

Onyx,  transparent (pure black, pure white, or stripes)

The pearl,  translucent (white, yellow, pink, black)

Turquoise,  opaque (pale blue-green)

Categories of costume jewelry

Head jewelry, hair jewelry, forehead jewelry

pin, barrette, headband, wrist or braid bead,

crown, tiara,

earrings

ear stud

ear cuff

ear muff

Neck jewelry

choker necklace also called "choker" or "choker"

multi-strand necklace

pendant necklace

long necklace

ball or bola

Arm jewelry

bracelet

cuff or sleeve

arm circumference or cuff

Hand jewelry

adjustable ring

chain ring

week ring

alliance

tray ring

signet ring

Body jewelry

chest chain

bustier

waist chain

belly chain

Foot jewelry

anklet

ankle chain or ankle bracelet

foot chain

toe ring or foot ring

barefoot sandal

Not forgetting the jewelry resulting from piercing,  which clearly increases the variety of jewelry possible to enhance both the outfit and the body, depending on the period, the time, the era, the events...

Business and industry

Costume jewelry is considered a discrete category of fashion accessory and displays many characteristics of a self-contained industry. Costume jewelry manufacturers are located throughout the world, with a particular concentration in parts of China and India, where the trade of these goods dominates entire citywide and region-wide economies. There has been considerable controversy in the United States and elsewhere about the lack of regulations in the manufacture of such jewelry—these range from human rights issues surrounding the treatment of labor, to the use of manufacturing processes in which small, but potentially harmful, amounts of toxic metals are added during production. In 2010, the Associated Press released the story that toxic levels of the metal cadmium were found in children's jewelry. An Associated Press investigation found some pieces contained more than 80 percent of cadmium. The broader issues surrounding imports, exports, trade laws, and globalization also apply to the costume jewelry trade.

As part of the supply chain, wholesalers in the United States and other nations purchase costume jewelry from manufacturers. They typically import or export it to wholesale distributors and suppliers who deal directly with retailers. Wholesale costume jewelry merchants traditionally seek new suppliers at trade shows. The trade-show model has changed as the Internet has become increasingly important in global trade. Retailers can now select from many wholesalers with sites on the World Wide Web. The wholesalers purchase from international suppliers available on the Web from different parts of the world, like Chinese, Korean, Indonesian, Thai, and Indian jewelry companies, with their wide range of products in bulk quantities. Some sites also market directly to consumers who can purchase costume jewelry at significantly reduced prices. Some websites categorize fashion jewelry separately, while others use this term instead of costume jewelry. The trend of jewelry-making at home by hobbyists for personal enjoyment or sale on sites like Etsy has resulted in the common practice of buying wholesale costume jewelry in bulk and using it for parts.

There is a rise in demand for artificial or imitation jewelry by 85% due to the increase in gold prices, according to a 2011 report.

Designers and producers of costume jewelry

In France

Gas Jewelry

Reminiscence

International

Claire's (United States)

Dolce & Gabbana (Italy)

Guess (United States)

Kate Spade (United States)

Morellato (Italy)

Pilgrim (Denmark)

Swarovski (Austria)

Criticism

German authorities and consumer protection agencies repeatedly detect excessive levels of lead,  cadmium,  and other harmful substances in contemporary costume jewelry. Frequent wearing of costume jewelry has also been linked to the development of contact allergies. 

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