With the dawn of the 17th century, resistance to the rigid Spanish nature spread. The quest for freedom and naturalness expressed itself in clothing fashion at the time of the Thirty Years' War.
The costume received its character through the Thirty Years War, which also shaped the fashion. It was dominated by high leather boots, over the knees, which were usually left in their natural color, with spikes or spikes along the edges, and large spurs on broad, often full foot spore leathers. Added to this was the slouch hat, a soft felt hat with a wider front, sides, rear or two places up brim and with one or more springs decorated, one now again further down reaching rock, about a latter in the form of equal Koller of leather, a broad, the lace collar collar covering shoulders, as well as one worn on a wide VandelierSword. With stunners this costume degenerated somewhat; especially the high boots on the forehead above or below the knee were turned over ( cuff boots ), so that the trousers were to be seen, or the boots were pushed down so far.
During the war, these clothes not only carried mercenaries and soldiers in Germany, but also the educated male world. In England and the Netherlands, the new fashion also prevailed gradually, but in a refined form. Everyone knows the depictions in the paintings of Peter Paul Rubens and Anthonis van Dyck or The Night Watch by Rembrandt.
Around the middle of the 17th century, the costume changed. In the men, the skirt shortened into a short-sleeved, shirt-visible jacket, the trousers were wide, baggy breeches were made, at the side seam with trims or the like, and at the bottom hemwere occupied with lace. The collar shortened to two wide rags crashing under the chin, which closed off in a straight line below. The coat with the collar turned down to the knee and was worn by stunners on one shoulder; it also included a now less broad and tall felt-thong felt hat of a firmer shape and darker color, and a long stick with a button. The hair was allowed to grow long and hang down wildly. Especially popular were loops on clothes, hair and shoes.
Men's fashions
From around 1630 when the warfare became intense in various places, folding collar and stuffing disappeared from men's fashion, clothes of a more easy-to-move and free impression are drawn, as depicted in Alexandre Dumas 's " Three Musketeers " illustration become. Spain who was driving the fashion weakened, costumes of wealthy citizens of the emerging countries of the Netherlands who were winning independence from Spain became popular. Things that were clothes in farmers and soldiers outdoors, such as a kind of cape and boots called back then, became available at court salons and balls as well. The upper garment gradually became shorter, and the shorts became knee length and made it easy to exercise.
Long-haired and bearded fashion for the knights, and gorgeous dress wearing a ribbon bundle called Gyaran on the whole body of lace cuffs and canon (knee ornament).
Shirts, doublets, and jerkins
Linen shirts had deep cuffs. Shirt sleeves became fuller throughout the period. To the 1620s, a collar wired to stick out horizontally, called a whisk, was popular. Other styles included an unstarched ruff-like collar and, later, a rectangular falling band lying on the shoulders. Pointed Van Dyke beards, named after the painter Anthony van Dyck, were fashionable, and men often grew a large, wide moustache, as well. Doublets were pointed and fitted close to the body, with tight sleeves, to about 1615. Gradually waistlines rose and sleeves became fuller, and both body and upper sleeves might be slashed to show the shirt beneath. By 1640 doublets were full and unfitted, and might be open at the front below the high waist to show the shirt.
Sleeveless leather jerkins were worn by soldiers and are seen in portraits, but otherwise the jerkin rapidly fell out of fashion for indoor wear.
Hose and breeches
G Paned or pansied trunk hose or round hose, padded hose with strips of fabric (panes) over a full inner layer or lining, were worn early in the period, over cannions, fitted hose that ended above the knee. Trunk hose were longer than in the previous period, and were pear-shaped, with less fullness at the waist and more at mid-thigh.
Slops or galligaskins, loose hose reaching just below the knee, replaced all other styles of hose by the 1620s, and were now generally called breeches. Breeches might be fastened up the outer leg with buttons or buckles over a full lining.
From 1600 to c. 1630, hose or breeches were fastened to doublets by means of ties or points, short laces or ribbons pulled through matching sets of worked eyelets. Points were tied in bows at the waist and became more elaborate until they disappeared with the very short waisted doublets of the late 1630s. Decorated metal tips on points were called aiguillettes or aiglets, and those of the wealthy were made of precious metals set with pearls and other gemstones.
Spanish breeches, rather stiff ungathered breeches, were also popular throughout the era.
Outerwear
Gowns were worn early in the period, but fell out of fashion in the 1620s.
Short cloaks or capes, usually hip-length, often with sleeves, were worn by fashionable men, usually slung artistically over the left shoulder, even indoors; a fashion of the 1630s matched the cape fabric to the breeches and its lining to the doublet. Long cloaks were worn for inclement weather.
Hairstyles and Headgear
Early in the period, hair was worn collar-length and brushed back from the forehead; very fashionable men wore a single long strand of hair called a lovelock over one shoulder. Hairstyles grew longer through the period, and long curls were fashionable by the late 1630s and 1640s, pointing toward the ascendance of the wig in the 1660s.
Pointed beards and wide mustaches were fashionable.
To about 1620, the fashionable hat was the capotain, with a tall conical crown rounded at the top and a narrow brim. By the 1630s, the crown was shorter and the brim was wider, often worn cocked or pinned up on one side and decorated with a mass of ostrich plumes.
Close-fitting caps called coifs or biggins were worn only by young children and old men under their hats or alone indoors.
Style gallery 1600s–1620s
1 – 1603-10
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2 – 1606–09
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3 – c. 1610
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4 – 1613
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5 - 1615
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6 – 1623
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7 – 1628
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8 – 1629
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9 - 1630
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1.James VI and I, 1603–1610, wears a satin doublet, wired whisk, short cape, and hose over cannions. Narrow points are tied in bows at his waist. He wears the garter and collar of the Order of the Garter.
2.The young Henry, Prince of Wales and his companion wear doublets with wide wings and tight sleeves, and matching full breeches with soft pleats at the waist. For hunting, they wear plain linen shirts with flat collars and short cuffs at the wrist. Their soft boots turn down into cuffs below the knee, and are worn with linen boot hose. The prince wears a felt hat with a feather, 1606–09.
3.Peter Saltonstall, in a fashionably melancholic pose c. 1610, wears an embroidered linen jacket under a brown robe with split sleeves. The robe sleeves have buttons and parallel rows of fringed braid that make button loops. The flat pleats or darts that shape his sheer collar and cuffs are visible. He wears an earring hung by a black cord.
4.Richard Sackville, 3rd Earl of Dorset wears elaborate clothing, probably for the wedding of the King's daughter Elizabeth in 1613 (see notes on image page). His doublet, shoes, and the cuffs of his gloves are embroidered to match, and he wears a sleeved cloak on one arm and very full hose.
5.Actor Nathan Field in a shirt decorated with blackwork embroidery, 1615.
6.James Hamilton wears the unstarched ruff that became popular in England in the 1620s. His hose reach to the lower thigh and are worn with scarlet stockings and heeled shoes, 1623.
7.Don Carlos of Spain wears a black patterned doublet with full black breeches, black stockings, and flat black shoes with roses. He carried a wide-brimmed black hat, 1628.
8.Charles I. By the 1620s, doublets were still pointed but the waistline was rising above long tabs or skirts. Sleeves are slashed to the elbow and tight below. Points are more elaborate bows, and hose have completed the transition to breeches.
9.Gustav II Adolf, King of Sweden (1611–1632) wears the Swedish Protestant fashions of the 17th century. Boots adorned with flowers, doublet, cuffs and sheer collar.
Style gallery 1630s–1640s
1 – 1630s
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2 – 1631–32
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3 – 1634
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4 – 1635
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5 – 1638
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6 – 1639
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7 – 1642
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8 – 1644
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1.Dutch fashion. The short-waisted doublet is slashed across the back. Points have elaborate ribbon rosettes (note matching points at hem of breeches).
2.Philip IV of Spain wears breeches and doublet of brown and silver and a dark cloak all trimmed with silver lace. His sleeves are white and he wears white stockings, plain black shoes, and brown leather gloves, 1631–32.
3.Henri II of Lorraine, Duke de Guise, in the buff leather jerkin and gorget (neck armor) of a soldier. His jerkin is open from the mid-chest, and his breeches match his cape, 1634.
4.Charles I's doublet of 1635 is shorter waisted, and points have disappeared. He wears a broad-brimmed hat and boots.
5.Royalist style: Brothers Lord John Stuart and Lord Bernard Stuart wear contrasting satin doublets and breeches, satin-lined short cloaks, and high collars with lavish lace scallops. Their high-heeled boots have deep cuffs and are worn over boot hose with lace tops, c. 1638.
6.A Dutch civic guardsman wears a shortwaisted leather buff jerkin and a broad sash, both fashionable among soldiers. 1639.
7.The young Charles, Prince of Wales, (later Charles II) wears a soldier's buff jerkin, sash, and half armor over a fashionable doublet and breeches trimmed with ribbon bows.
8.Philip IV of Spain in military dress, 1644, wears a broad linen collar and matching cuffs. His sleeved short gown or cassock of red with metallic embroidery is worn over a buff jerkin and silver-gray sleeves. He carries a broad-brimmed black hat cocked on one side.
Men's clothing
For the state of Spanish fashion till the 1620s, see the western clothing (16th century). As a feature, it was very difficult to move, it was very tameless, correcting the ceremony with stuffing tightly packed in clothes and hard decorative collar.
By around the 1630's the Spanish style was almost completely destroyed in the secular world, more flexible and active fashion among the knights became mainstream. An au shawl swollen like an onion got stuffing, decorated with a ribbon with a lace or a decorative button with knee under the knee and decorated a knee lace called "Kanon". The poolspoan decorating with a slit in the fabric continued, but the stuffing stuffed in the stomach wasted and drawn a line of natural body, the sleeve length and the length of the clothes gradually became shorter, tied in the inside of the clothes "Ejyette" (a ribbon hanging the Auducsus) was tied outward through the eyelet and also played the role of ribbon decoration. And the collar is softly hanging, the so-called "Louis XIII collar" is attached, a sleeveless leather outerwear called a collar, shoulder knee-length boots of a toe (a thigh-length boots that folded back greatly afterwards), a jewel I hung a Cape-type mantle called mantle on one shoulder, and wore a felt hat with a widened collar called "Respondant (sensitive)". From this period fashion is more favored than a heavy embroidery of luxurious fur or gold thread silver thread, colorful ribbon bundle "Galant" is liked and decorated around here.
Clothing of common people
Farmers and prayers roughly raised the arm of Chemise through the 17th century, and wear old-fashioned "hose" (long pants) or bleeches (short pants like knickerbocker ). The farmers sometimes suffered a hood and had tightened a short apron convenient for putting rice and wiping hands during seeding. In addition, I sometimes wear jacket-style clothing for cold weather, among German farmers I called these jackets "rock" and in the UK "Jacques". Rock is also a soldier 's warm clothes, and in France it calls the soldier' s mantle "Cajac" and gets widely worn, which later becomes the origin of the court mantle named "Justcol". Hair stretching long for a long time was a privilege of aristocracy, so the hair was trimmed almost briefly.
The shepherds who chase the sheep under the lords protect the old-fashioned clothes, and wearing an old-fashioned loose-headed poolpian over Schmizz and wearing a briefs. For winter we wore a cloak (long bell-shaped mantle), wearing boots, wearing a flat crown (part of the hat's head, a hat mountain) and a felt hat with a narrow brim. A milk store going to sell milk purchased from a farmer to the town, wears a crown in a jacket, a boots with a large button and a flat hat, a long apron to cover the knee to load and unload the milk canister from the wagon they gave it. Among the people who live in rural areas, the mother of making wine was wearing a knee-length Brie ches to poolpoan, tightened apron of leather, and wearing a rigid collar like a priest throughout the 17th century was correcting herself. This is because the wine-making craftworkers were respected to some extent and wealthy because wine is an important item used for rituals of the church.
Costumes of craftworkers living in the town were similar to each other, but there are some differences for each occupation. Occupation wears a briefs in a short poolpoan, tightened aprons, and covered a conical hat. Although shoemakers are not too different from each other in appearance, black leather shoes are trademarks, and when going out they are wearing Jucoskol. The butcher crowded the sleeves of Chemise and was characterized by wearing a sleeveless.
Upstream citizen's clothing
Since the early 1630s, the trends of men's clothing prevalence were in rich citizens of the emerging countries of the Netherlands. The dress of wealthy Dutch citizen who is a fashion leader at this time can be seen well by seeing the costume of Rembrandt's "night watchman" civil squad. The stiff collar is soft and spreads over the shoulder, the hat covers a soft long thing on the long hair and combines the pool pants and the loose trousers down to the knees with the boots. Like the Spanish mode, the Dutch mode was also centered in black and crimson, but instead of the heavy and heavy shades of the last century, pastel-like colors such as pale blue, pale red, pale green, pale yellow, and smoky colors Began to gain popularity. According to Agrippa Dubinier also, the beginning of the 17th century, such as "nuns belly" "cheerful widow" "sick Spaniard" "poisoned monkey" "constipation woman" "chicken color" The color name was prevalent. These are colors that were hardly used for clothes so far, from pale pink or muddy yellowish brown to greenish dull yellow. The jacket-style clothes that farmers had worn since about 1635 began to appear in the mode world. The length of the jacket's outerwear and the pants' pant legs became increasingly shorter these days and young wealthy men became obviously walking around the city with some underwear like chemises and drawers visible.
Upper class dress
At the Court, Spanish style apparel was used as a formal dress for a long time even after Spanish style clothes were gone from everyday arrival. Testimony that the delegation sent to Vienna from Naples in 1688 still wears Spanish style clothes inside the Court. The socks are more often used with cotton knitted fabrics, and in the property list of the Count of Rutland in 1613 possessing stockings of meat color (pink), green, gray, silver and black.
Source from Wikipedia
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