Clothing in ancient Greece
primarily consisted of the chiton, peplos, himation, and chlamys. Ancient Greek
men and women typically wore two pieces of clothing draped about the body: an
undergarment (chiton or peplos) and a cloak (himation or chlamys). Clothes were
customarily homemade out of various lengths of rectangular linen or wool fabric
with little cutting or sewing, and secured with ornamental clasps or pins, and
a belt, or girdle (zone). Pieces were generally interchangeable between men and
women.
While no clothes have survived from this
period, descriptions exist in contemporary accounts and artistic depictions.
Clothes were mainly homemade, and often served many purposes (such as bedding).
Common clothing of the time was plain white, sometimes incorporating decorative
borders. There is evidence of elaborate design and bright colors, but these
were less common.
History and types
Chiton
The chiton was a simple tunic garment of
lighter linen that was worn by both sexes and all ages. It consisted of a wide,
rectangular tube of material secured along the shoulders and upper arms by a
series of fasteners. Chitons typically fell to the ankles of the wearer, but
shorter chitons were sometimes worn during vigorous activities by athletes,
warriors or slaves.
Often excess fabric would be pulled over a
girdle, or belt, which was fastened around the waist (see kolpos). To deal with
the bulk sometimes a strap, or anamaschalister was worn around the neck,
brought under the armpits, crossed in the back and tied in the front. A
himation, or cloak, could be worn over-top of the chiton.
There are two types of chitons - Doric and
Ionic. The Doric chiton is "sleeveless", as sleeve technology had not
really been created yet. Much like that on the caryatid to the right, the Doric
chiton has a fold over at the top or apoptygma, is attached with fibulae at the
shoulders, and is belted at the waist. Unlike the Doric Chiton, the Ionic
chiton doesn't have an apoptygma, and is a long enough rectangle of fabric that
when folded in half can complete a wingspan. Before shaped sleeve patterns
existed the Greeks attached fibulae (ancient Greek safety pins) all the way up
both arms to join the front and back top edges of the fabric. The Ionic chiton
was also belted at the waist.
Peplos
A predecessor to the himation, the peplos
was a square piece of cloth that was originally worn over the chiton. The top
third of the cloth was folded over and pinned at both shoulders, leaving the
cloth open down one side. Sometimes the peplos was worn alone as an alternative
form of chiton. As with the chiton, often a girdle or belt would be used to
fasten the folds at the waist.
Himation
The himation was a simple outer garment
worn over the peplos or chiton. It consisted of a heavy rectangular material,
passing under the left arm and secured at the right shoulder. The cloak would
be twisted around a strap that also passed under the left arm and over the
right shoulder. A more voluminous himation was worn in cold weather.
The himation could be pulled up over the
head to cover the wearer when they were overcome by emotion or shame.
Chlamys
The chlamys was a seamless rectangle of
woolen material worn by men for military or hunting purposes. It was worn as a
cloak and fastened at the right shoulder with a brooch or button.
The chlamys was typical Greek military
attire from the 5th to the 3rd century BC.
Undergarments
Women often wore a strophion, the bra of
the time, under their garments. The strophion was a wide band of wool or linen
wrapped across the breasts and tied between the shoulder blades.
Men and women sometimes wore triangular
loincloths, called perizoma, as underwear.
Fasteners and buttons
Since clothing was rarely cut or sewn,
fasteners and buttons were often used to keep garments in place. Small buttons,
pins and brooches were used.
Large pins, called peronai or fibulae, were
worn at the shoulders, facing down, to hold the chiton or peplos in place.
Footwear
Women and men typically wore sandals,
slippers, soft shoes, or boots. At home they usually went barefoot.
Jewelry
Ornamentation in the form of jewelry,
elaborate hairstyles and make-up was common for women. Small gold ornaments
would be sewn onto their clothing and would glitter as they moved.
Fabrics
Ancient Greek clothing was made with silk,
linen and most often, wool. The production of fabric was a long and tedious
process, making ready-made clothing expensive. It was socially accepted that
textile making was primarily women's responsibility, and the production of high
quality textiles was regarded as an accomplishment for women of high status.
Once made, the cloth was rarely cut. The seamless rectangles of fabric were
draped on the body in various ways with little sewing involved.
Source From Wikipedia
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